From memory to jewellery - perspectives on memory in Italian and Danish jewellery design

From memory to jewellery - perspectives on memory in Italian and Danish jewellery design

Tanderup, Sisse

Article:

This paper examines the relationship between design and memory in Italian and Danish jewellery design. In Italy, there is a long tradition of working consciously with cultural memory, which adds layers of memory to design objects, mainly through inspiration from art, architecture, literature, philosophy and sociology. The memory dimension also plays a role in Danish jewellery design as a part of Danish cultural heritage. Here, the sources of inspiration mainly come from the symbols of nature. The paper draws especially on hermeneutical reflections around memory and on theoretical perspectives from material culture, practical works and interviews with prominent designers (Alessandro Mendini, Stefano Marchetti, Kim Buck) and Alberto Alessi. The distinction between Italian and Danish design is discussed through relevant examples of design from both countries. Designing objects charged with memory is a slow process and, in continuation of this, it takes time to acknowledge the underlying layers. There is a lack of research in the use of memory within contemporary jewellery design, especially seen from the perspective of the designer. The aim of this paper is to contribute to this field of research.

This paper examines the relationship between design and memory in Italian and Danish jewellery design. In Italy, there is a long tradition of working consciously with cultural memory, which adds layers of memory to design objects, mainly through inspiration from art, architecture, literature, philosophy and sociology. The memory dimension also plays a role in Danish jewellery design as a part of Danish cultural heritage. Here, the sources of inspiration mainly come from the symbols of nature. The paper draws especially on hermeneutical reflections around memory and on theoretical perspectives from material culture, practical works and interviews with prominent designers (Alessandro Mendini, Stefano Marchetti, Kim Buck) and Alberto Alessi. The distinction between Italian and Danish design is discussed through relevant examples of design from both countries. Designing objects charged with memory is a slow process and, in continuation of this, it takes time to acknowledge the underlying layers. There is a lack of research in the use of memory within contemporary jewellery design, especially seen from the perspective of the designer. The aim of this paper is to contribute to this field of research.

Palavras-chave:

DOI: 10.5151/despro-icdhs2014-0029

Referências bibliográficas

• [1] Ahde-Deal, P., 2013. Women and Jewelry – A Social Approach to Wearing and Possessing Jewelry. Doctoral Dissertation. Helsinki: Alto Art Books.
• [2] Alessi, A., 2008. Author’s conversation [Interview] (29 February 2008).
• [3] Assmann, J., 2011. Cultural Memory and Early Civilization. Writing, Remembrance and Political Imagination. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
• [4] Buck, K., 2009. Author’s conversation [Interview] (25 May 2009).
• [5] Dybbøl, M. Andamp; Vinther, S. U., 2009. Hofjuveler A. Michelsen. Fra stilkopi til arkitektsølv. Malene Dybbøl Andamp; Sabrina Ulrich Vinther ed. Copenhagen: Nyt Nordisk Forlag Arnold Busck.
• [6] Essen, M. v., 2009. Author’s conversation [Interview] (17 November 2009).
• [7] Gadamer, H.-G., 2004. Truth and Method. 1 ed. Aarhus: Systime Academic.
• [8] Hines, T. Andamp; Bruce, M., 2001. Fashion marketing. Contemporary issues. Oxford: Butterworth-Heinemann.
• [9] Marchetti, S., 2010. Author’s conversation [Interview] (2 September 2010).
• [10] Mendini, A., 2013. Author’s conversation [Interview] (19 September 2013).
• [11] Proust, M., 1999. In Search of Lost Time. Swann’s Way. Copenhagen: Rosinante Forlag A/S.

Como citar:

Tanderup, Sisse; "From memory to jewellery - perspectives on memory in Italian and Danish jewellery design", p-237-242. In: Tradition, Transition, Tragectories: major or minor influences? [=ICDHS 2014 - 9th Conference of the International Committee for Design History and Design Studies]. São Paulo: Blucher, 2014.
ISSN 23186968, DOI 10.5151/despro-icdhs2014-0029