Full Paper - Open Access.

Idioma principal | Segundo idioma

Systemic Design for a circular textile: towards a systemic change

Systemic Design for a circular textile: towards a systemic change

Ferrulli, Eliana ; Barbero, Silvia ;

Full Paper:

"The Circular Economy Action Plan provides a roadmap of actions aiming at accelerating the transformational change required by the European Green New Deal. The textile sector has been identified amongst the industrial sectors recognized of great potential for the reconversion from linear to circular economy. Being one of the world’s most globalized, polluting, and exploitative industries throughout its whole value chain, there is an urgent need for the textile sector to make a transformative and radical shift towards a Circular Economy.  Since 2015, different Circular Economy actions have been implemented across different industrial sectors and at the micro / meso / macro level, but a systemic and cross-sectoral effort is needed to cope with such a complex challenge. Thus, this paper contributes to the ongoing discussion around the topic of design for sustainability aiming to understand how a systemic design approach can foster the transition towards a circular textile value chain. "

Full Paper:

"The Circular Economy Action Plan provides a roadmap of actions aiming at accelerating the transformational change required by the European Green New Deal. The textile sector has been identified amongst the industrial sectors recognized of great potential for the reconversion from linear to circular economy. Being one of the world’s most globalized, polluting, and exploitative industries throughout its whole value chain, there is an urgent need for the textile sector to make a transformative and radical shift towards a Circular Economy.  Since 2015, different Circular Economy actions have been implemented across different industrial sectors and at the micro / meso / macro level, but a systemic and cross-sectoral effort is needed to cope with such a complex challenge. Thus, this paper contributes to the ongoing discussion around the topic of design for sustainability aiming to understand how a systemic design approach can foster the transition towards a circular textile value chain. "

Palavras-chave: Circular Economy, Systemic Design, Sustainability, Textile,

Palavras-chave: Circular Economy, Systemic Design, Sustainability, Textile,

DOI: 10.5151/ead2021-158

Referências bibliográficas
  • [1] "Baldassarre, B., Schepers, M., Bocken, N., Cuppen, E., Korevaar, G., & Calabretta, G. (2019). Industrial Symbiosis: towards a design process for eco-industrial clusters by integrating Circular Economy and Industrial Ecology perspectives. Journal of Cleaner Production, 216, 446–460. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2019.0091
  • [2] Barbero, S. (2012). SyStemic energy networkS, Vol. 1. The theory of Systemic Design applied to energy sector (Vol. 1). Lulu. com.
  • [3] Battistoni, C., Giraldo Nohra, C., & Barbero, S. (2019). A systemic design method to approach future complex scenarios and research towards sustainability: A holistic diagnosis tool. Sustainability, 11(16), 4458.
  • [4] Benyus, J. M. (2020). Biomimicry: innovation inspired by nature.
  • [5] Bhamra, T., Lofthouse, V., and Cooper, R. (ed.) (2007). Design for sustainability : a practical approach. Design for Social Responsibility series, Farnham, Gower.
  • [6] Bistagnino, L. (2011). Systemic design: designing the productive and environmental sustainability. Slow Food Editore, Cuneo, Bra.
  • [7] Brezet, H. (1997). Ecodesign-A promising approach to sustainable production and consumption. United Nations Environmental Programme (UNEP).
  • [8] Buchanan, R. (1992). Wicked problems in design thinking. Design issues, 8(2), 5-21.
  • [9] Capra, F. (1996). The web of life: A new scientific understanding of living systems. Anchor.
  • [10] Ceschin, F., & Gaziulusoy, I. (2016). Evolution of design for sustainability: From product design to design for system innovations and transitions. Design Studies, 47, 118-163.
  • [11] Commoner, B. (1971). The closing circle. Nature, man, and technology (pp. 6–26).
  • [12] Cristina Dan, M., & Østergaard, T. (2021). Circular Fashion: The New Roles of Designers in Organizations Transitioning to a Circular Economy. The Design Journal. https://doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2021.1936748
  • [13] De Pauw, I. C. (2015). Nature-inspired design: Strategies for sustainable product development.
  • [14] Demaria, F., Schneider, F., Sekulova, F., & Martinez-Alier, J. (2013). What is degrowth? From an activist slogan to a social movement. Environmental Values, 22(2), 191-215.
  • [15] Den Hollander, M. C., Bakker, C. A., & Hultink, E. J. (2017). Product design in a circular economy: Development of a typology of key concepts and terms. Journal of Industrial Ecology, 21(3), 517-525.
  • [16] Ecopreneur.eu (2019) Circular fashion and textile producing countries. A first inventory of the potential impacts of an EU circular fashion industry on non-European textile producing countries. Retrieved May 14, 2021, from www.ecopreneur.eu
  • [17] Fitch-Roy, O., Benson, D., & Monciardini, D. (2019). Going around in circles? Conceptual recycling, patching and policy layering in the EU circular economy package. Environmental Politics. https://doi.org/10.1080/09644016.2019.1673996
  • [18] Frosch, R. A., & Gallopoulos, N. E. (1989). Strategies for manufacturing. Scientific American, 261(3), 144-153.
  • [19] Geissdoerfer, M. and Savaget, P. and Bocken, N.M.P. and Hultink, E.J. (2017) 'The circular economy  a new sustainability paradigm?', Journal of cleaner production., 143 . pp. 757-768.
  • [20] Ghisellini, P., Cialani, C., & Ulgiati, S. (2016). A review on circular economy: The expected transition to a balanced interplay of environmental and economic systems. Journal of Cleaner Production, 114, 11–32. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2015.09.007
  • [21] Giraldo Nohra, C., Pereno, A., & Barbero, S. (2020). Systemic design for policy-making: Towards the next circular regions. Sustainability, 12(11), 4494.
  • [22] Goldsworthy, K., & Earley, R. (2018). Circular Transitions: Textile design and the circular economy.
  • [23] Goldsworthy, K., Earley, R., & Politowicz, K. (2018). Circular Speeds: A Review of Fast & Slow Sustainable Design Approaches for Fashion & Textile Applications. Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice, 6(1), 2–4. https://doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2018.1467197
  • [24] Graedel, T. E. (1995). Industrial ecology.
  • [25] Hobson, K., Lynch, N., Lilley, D., & Smalley, G. (2018). Systems of practice and the Circular Economy: Transforming mobile phone product service systems. Environmental innovation and societal transitions, 26, 147-157.
  • [26] Irwin, T. (2015). Transition design: A proposal for a new area of design practice, study, and research. Design and Culture, 7(2), 229-246.
  • [27] Jia, F., Yin, S., Chen, L., & Chen, X. (2020). The circular economy in the textile and apparel industry: A systematic literature review. Journal of Cleaner Production, 259, 120728. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.JCLEPRO.2020.120728
  • [28] Jones, P. H. (2014). Systemic design principles for complex social systems. In G. Metcalf (Ed.), Social systems and design (pp. 91–128). Tokyo: Springer.
  • [29] JRC, 2014, Environmental improvement potential of textiles (IMPRO-Textiles), JRC Scientific and Technical Reports, Joint Research Centre, Ispra, Italy.
  • [30] Karell, E., & Niinimäki, K. (2019). Addressing the Dialogue between Design, Sorting and Recycling in a Circular Economy. 10–12. https://doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2019.1595413
  • [31] Karell, E., & Niinimäki, K. (2020). A mixed-method study of design practices and designers’ roles in sustainable-minded clothing companies. Sustainability (Switzerland), 12(11). https://doi.org/10.3390/su12114680
  • [32] Kern, F., Kivimaa, P., & Martiskainen, M. (2017). Policy packaging or policy patching? The development of complex energy efficiency policy mixes. Energy Research & Social Science, 23, 11-25.
  • [33] Kern, F., Sharp, H., & Hachmann, S. (2020). Governing the second deep transition towards a circular economy: How rules emerge, align and diffuse. Environmental Innovation and Societal Transitions, 37, 171-186.
  • [34] Krauz, A. (2016). Transition management in Montreuil: towards perspectives of hybridisation between ‘top-down’and ‘bottom-up’transitions. In Governance of urban sustainability transitions (pp. 133-150). Springer, Tokyo.
  • [35] Lane, R., Gumley, W., Santos, D., Ballie, J., & Woods, M. (2015). Circular by Design: A model for engaging fashion / textile SME’s with strategies for designed reuse. Unmaking Waste 2015 Conference Proceedings, May, 488–522.
  • [36] Lehner, M., Mont, O., Mariani, G., & Mundaca, L. (2020). Circular Economy in Home Textiles: Motivations of IKEA Consumers in Sweden. Sustainability. https://doi.org/10.3390/su12125030
  • [37] Lyle, J. T. (1996). Regenerative design for sustainable development. John Wiley & Sons.
  • [38] MacArthur, E. (2013). Towards the circular economy. Journal of Industrial Ecology, 2, 23-44.
  • [39] Martínez-Alier, J. (2012). Environmental justice and economic degrowth: an alliance between two movements. Capitalism Nature Socialism, 23(1), 51-73.
  • [40] McDonough, W., & Braungart, M. (2010). Cradle to cradle: Remaking the way we make things. North point press.
  • [41] Mestre, A., & Cooper, T. (2017). Circular product design. A multiple loops life cycle design approach for the circular economy. Design Journal, 20, S1620–S1635. https://doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2017.1352686
  • [42] Mhatre, P., Panchal, R., Singh, A., & Bibyan, S. (2021). A systematic literature review on the circular economy initiatives in the European Union. In Sustainable Production and Consumption (Vol. 26, pp. 187–202). Elsevier B.V. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.spc.2020.09.008
  • [43] Moorhouse, D., & Moorhouse, D. (2017). Sustainable design: circular economy in fashion and textiles. The Design Journal, 20(sup1), S1948-S1959.
  • [44] Murray, A., Skene, K., & Haynes, K. (2017). The circular economy: an interdisciplinary exploration of the concept and application in a global context. Journal of business ethics, 140(3), 369-380.
  • [45] Nikolaou, I. E., Jones, N., & Stefanakis, A. (2021). Circular Economy and Sustainability: the Past, the Present and the Directions. Circular Economy and Sustainability. https://doi.org/10.1007/s43615-021-00030-3
  • [46] Pauli, G. A. (2010). The blue economy: 10 years, 100 innovations, 100 million jobs. Paradigm publications.
  • [47] Pirages, D. C. (1977). Sustainable society: implications for limited growth.[16 papers].
  • [48] Preston, F. (2012). A global redesign? Shaping the circular economy.
  • [49] Raworth, K. (2017). A Doughnut for the Anthropocene: humanity's compass in the 21st century. The Lancet Planetary Health, 1(2), e48-e
  • [50] Rittel and Webber. (1973). Dilemmas in a general theory of planning. Policy Sciences, 4, 155-169.
  • [51] Schneider, F., Kallis, G., & Martinez-Alier, J. (2010). Crisis or opportunity? Economic degrowth for social equity and ecological sustainability. Introduction to this special issue. Journal of cleaner production, 18(6), 511-518.
  • [52] Sevaldson, B. (2011). Gigamapping: Visualization for complexity and systems thinking in design. Helsinki: Nordic Design Research Conference
  • [53] Stahel, W. (2010). The performance economy. Springer.
  • [54] Stebbing, P., & Tischner, U. (2015). Changing paradigms: designing for a sustainable future. Aalto University.
  • [55] Sumter, D., de Koning, J., Bakker, C., & Balkenende, R. (2021). Key competencies for design in a circular economy: Exploring gaps in design knowledge and skills for a circular economy. Sustainability (Switzerland), 13(2), 1–15. https://doi.org/10.3390/su13020776
  • [56] Thackara, J. (2005). In the Bubble: Designing in a Complex World. 
  • [57] United Nations Environment Programme (2009). Design for sustainability: A Global Guide. UNEP and TU Delft, Paris
  • [58] Vercalsteren, A., Nicolau, M., & Lafond, E. (2019). Textiles and the environment in a circular economy.
  • [59] Von Bertalanffy, L. (1950). An outline of general system theory. British Journal for the Philosophy of science.
  • [60] Wiener, N. (1948). Cybernetics or Control and Communication in the Animal and the Machine. Technology Press.
  • [61] "
Como citar:

Ferrulli, Eliana; Barbero, Silvia; "Systemic Design for a circular textile: towards a systemic change ", p. 239-250 . In: 14th International Conference of the European Academy of Design, Safe Harbours for Design Research. São Paulo: Blucher, 2021.
ISSN 2318-6968, DOI 10.5151/ead2021-158

últimos 30 dias | último ano | desde a publicação


downloads


visualizações


indexações