Article - Open Access.

Idioma principal

The perfect dress and its making: A comparative study of the sartorial habits of Amsterdam women (1950s–2010s)

MALDINI, Irene ; MANZ, Eagna Luciana ;

Article:

The shift from home and custom-made clothing to mass-produced ready-mades in 20th-century Europe has been the subject of studies from multiple disciplines and across various locations. Contributing to this field of studies, and extending the analysis until the present day, a group of female consumers living in Amsterdam in the 1950s and 2010s were interviewed about their sartorial habits. The study identifies a discrepancy between common manufacturing processes and values related to identity as a central cause of this shift. Furthermore it explores how such a discrepancy can be found again today, arguing that this divergence is leading to the re-emergence of customized production.

Article:

Palavras-chave: Dressmaking, mass production, customization, craftsmanship, identity,

Palavras-chave: ,

DOI: 10.5151/despro-icdhs2016-02_018

Referências bibliográficas
  • [1] Burman, B. (1999). Introduction. In B. Burman (Ed.), The Culture of Sewing. Gender, Consumption and Home Dressmaking. (pp. 1–18). Oxford, New York: Berg.
  • [2] Duray, R., Ward, P., Milligan, G., & Berry, W. (2000). Approaches to Mass Customization: Configurations and Empirical Validation. Journal of Operations Management, 18, 605–625.
  • [3] Fernandez, N. P. (1994). Innovations for Home Dressmaking and the Popularization of Stylish Dress. Journal of American Culture, 23–3
  • [4] Godley, A. (1997). The Development of the Clothing Industry: Technology and Fashion. Textile History, 28(1), 3–10.
  • [5] Godley, A. (1999). Homeworking and the Sewing Machine in the British Clothing Industry 1850–190 In B. Burman (Ed.), The Culture of Sewing. Gender, Consumption and Home Dressmaking. (pp. 255–266). Oxford, New York: Berg.
  • [6] Kaipainen, M. (2009). Gendered Craft – Tailoring in Finland from the 1920s to the 1960s. In Proceedings of the Crafticulation & Education Conference (pp. 70–75). Helsinki.
  • [7] Kaipainen, M. (2010). Fashion Advice for Men in Tailors’ Publications. In Design & Craft: A History of Convergences and Divergences. Proceedings of the ICDHS 2010. (pp. 363–365). Brussels.
  • [8] Marcketti, S. B. (2005). Design Piracy in the United States Women’s Ready-to-Wear Apparel Industry:1910-1941. Iowa State University. Retrieved from http://lib.dr.iastate.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2755&context=rtd
  • [9] Pine, J. (1999). Mass Customization: The New Frontier in Business Competition. Harvard Business School Press.
  • [10] Tarde, G. (1903). Laws of Imitation (2nd ed.). New York: Henry Holt.
  • [11] Ugolini, L. (2003). Ready-to-wear or Made-to-measure? Consumer Choice in the British Menswear Trade, 1900–1939. Textile History, 34(2), 192–213.
  • [12] Wilson, E. (2003). Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity. London, New York: I.B. Tauris.
  • [13] Zakim, M. (2009). Sartorial Ideologies: From Homespun to Ready-Made. In P. McNeil (Ed.), Fashion: Critical and Primary Sources. The Nineteenth Century. (pp. 252–285). Oxford, New York: Berg.
Como citar:

MALDINI, Irene; MANZ, Eagna Luciana; "The perfect dress and its making: A comparative study of the sartorial habits of Amsterdam women (1950s–2010s)", p. 157-161 . In: Wong, Wendy Siuyi; Kikuchi, Yuko & Lin, Tingyi (Eds.). Making Trans/National Contemporary Design History [=ICDHS 2016 – 10th Conference of the International Committee for Design History & Design Studies]. São Paulo: Blucher, 2016.
ISSN 2318-6968, DOI 10.5151/despro-icdhs2016-02_018

últimos 30 dias | último ano | desde a publicação


downloads


visualizações


indexações